Blister in the Sun

Fraser Island

I left sunny Noosa behind and went again via Greyhound, toward Hervey Bay. A town that exists it seems only to service Fraser Island - the worlds largest Sand island - home to beaches, rainforests, lakes and some really amazing wildlife - not to mention some awesome memories for many travellers that take the 3 day camping trip here. On arrival I was immediately subjected to a couple of hours worth of safety briefings. Pretty necessary as we'd be driving 4x4s on some rugged terrain, the island is also home to some of Australias purest breed Dingos (wild dogs), and the seas surrounding the island are also infested with anything from Turtles, Rays and Dolphins, to Hump back whales and Tiger sharks - so no early morning swims then.

30 people met in the hostal bar and were randomly assigned a group, this group of 10 would be your co-pilots and co-inhabitants for the next few days so everyone would hope to get a good bunch. Adam, Kay, Sebcil, Sarah, Dave, Julian, Elodie, Pat, Nick and Luke formed group B and would spend the rest of the evening having a couple of drinks and getting to know each other.

Day 1
At 5.30am, our alarms went off and we met up for 5.45 to get the cars packed and ready to go. Again, this was something everyone would rather not have done, tiredness and a bunch of excitement just meant everyone wanted to get motoring. After checklists, more safety videos, and some paperwork was complete, I took the wheel to get us from the hostel to the barge landing. Nick and I set about reducing tyre pressures and altering the vehicle for 4x4 as everything from now on would be sandy and pretty crumby surfaces.

First off the boat and Group B hit the sand quick. Our first destination was Lake Mackenzie - a gorgeous deep Azure freshwater lake. After what seemed like an epic battle getting a fully loaded 4x4 (10 people, 60 beers, 10 4 litre wine bags, meat, food, cooking gas, luggage etc etc) we arrived and took a quick walk down to the lake. The heat was reflecting off of the white sands as we arrived and the obvious thing was to get submersed as quick as possible. After the swim, the other 2 groups had also arrived and so it pretty quickly became sunbaking time for the girls and beach-soccer for the boys. The boy Fonfara this time (Thai silky skills eluding me this time) showing his ineffectiveness in the sliding tackle position!

Back in the cars again, we started the trip out to the East beach of Fraser; a sandy motorway giving access to the other sites around the island. Though after making a couple of Kms headway, we found that a car had blown up "Arnold Shwarzeneggar style" and we'd have to back track. Bumping around like a crazed bumpy thing, we eventually made it to Eurong and the refreshing flat grounds making driving far easier... or at least until Pat took over the driving and dropped us down into a stream at speed. The pots and pans made it sound worse than it was but still entertaining nonetheless.

We made it to the North East tip of the beach and to Indian Head where we stopped to have our first meal of the trip - sandwiches with a rationed 1 slice of cheese followed by crisps. A little more football and everyone was ready to take a hike to the top of the cliffs to have a look at the Ocean. On a good day you'll spot all kinds of sea life - we had a good day and spotted Whales, Dolphins, Sharks, Turtles and Rays - no blood though.

The sun was dipping fast and we had to set up camp. We found a spot and met up with Group A, a little unsure of where group C had disappeared to.

With tents up, my iPod once again making itself the most invaluable gizmo of all time providing the tunes as we set about creating culinary masterpieces... or burgers and spuds. The cooking time was slow, and though all was a little laced with sand, everyone was happy to be getting a good feed after a long day of adventure, and several hours of drinking.

Day 2
Our second day would be the only full day on Fraser so we took the opportunity and the lead from yesterdays Mackenzie experience to head to Lake Allom. Along the beach, we stopped off at the Maheno shipwreck - a vessel that's sat here since the 30's I believe. After the photo session we headed back off of the beach.

A breath taking drive along the Northern Scenic drive with group A's 4x4 always in rear view, past the Boomerang Lakes and eventually we arrived at Allom. With everyone in boardies and bikinies, towels in hand... we walked out in front of a very reedy looking lake; home to hundreds of turtles, some of which came to greet us. Sadly no swimming, so 20 tired backpackers retreated for some lunch.

We headed off for a guaranteed swim, or at least a crawl in some shallow waters at Eli Creek. The creek is a short and windy water way leading out to sea that I assume on a wetter day would allow your to float from inland all the way to the beach. In places we could do that, but others required some Commando style dront crawling along the sandy creek bed.

Much of the remaining daylight had been eaten up, so concentration was then put on the night ahead.

We found a much better beach spot to finish up at, and we soon had two 4x4s lined up parallel in order to form the walls to a great party. Tarps set up between, grills flaming and an arrival from Group C who had broken down the day before. Sun set with music pumping once again. The night would see more sand eaten, many drinking games including the much chanted Zimmy Zimmy and a few of us falling over a little too much to the preying Dingo's humour.

Day 3

Some sleepy heads awoke on the final day, and as the sun rose, some of us boys went for a run along the beach to clear some toxins before getting camp together and setting off for a return visit to Lake Mackenzie - the obvious highlight of the trip. By now we'd seen quite a few Dingo's but this morning seemed to really attract them around the camp - maybe due to the amount of people, or maybe due to some of the deposits a couple of people may have left lying in the grass the night before. After some horror stories, the Kanine vultures seemed pretty tame.

A far more chilled session at the lake as everyone was feeling the lathargy of the past couple of days. Midday passed us by and soon it was time for a final lunch before gunning the relatively lightweight 4x4 - now missing all the drink and meat back to the barge terminal.

After clearing up the cars, returning equipment and getting bond moneys back, everyone took some time to chill out. We headed out for some final group drinks before I ducked out at 11.30 to grab a taxi to the Greyhound stop destined for Airlie Beach. I arrived at midnight for my 12.25 bus, and in what seemed like seconds, I was lucky enough to have the driver tugging at my foot asking if I was planning to sleep on the bench all night or if I'd like to jump on board.

Elusive

Noosa

With the weekend over, I decided to seek timeout with some relaxing exploration of my next destination - eased greatly by the early week - party atmosphere lull.

I got up after a good sleep and took the bus as far as the entrance to Noosa National Park with the intention of spotting a Koala or two. Along the coastal walking track I spotted many different species of plant and wildlife but no elusive Koalas. I arrived at the main point where there were some pretty good views out to the ocean. Still determined to spot a cuddly marcupial I took a different track back to the start of the park and eventually, I managed to spot one of the little fellas way up above me. Having met a Koala 12 years ago on my first visit to Oz, there wasn't much to see except some chewing and general spectating of life so I took a picture and moved on back along the Tanglewood trail toward Noosa.

Noosa is quintessentially a holiday destination, a nice one at that. The locals have voted to stop it going high rise, and also to cap the population at somewhere around the 70,000 mark. Once this is reached, it'll be one in one out. All the architecture here is pretty modern and there is some obvious money on show. The bus driver had pointed out the rentanble condo that both Bono and Bob Geldoff have frequented in the past.

I walked on past the beach and made it back into town where I got refreshed and visited a couple of galleries before heading out to the Sheraton Wharf to pick up the Noosa ferry cruise. A little unsure of what to expect, it was a fairly tame, but interesting ride up the River to Newantin where I had a huge fish & chip lunch. The sun was beating down hard so I made sure to lap up the rays giving my tan added momentum!

I returned back to the hostel and discovered a couple of friends whom I keep bumping into up the East Coast had also checked in. Our little group soon built momentum and pretty soon we had a big game of cards with some cheap drinks... before the hostel put on a few competitions where myself and and Canadian guy managed to win a limbo contest earning us a jug of beer.

Life will be the death of me

Surfers Paradise

After around 4months in the state of New South Wales, a relatively short trip up from Byron dropped me in the middle of Surfers Paradise, Queensland.

Consequently, I chatted the whole way to there with 3 English girls I met on the bus. Time flew by and before I knew it, I was making my way out of the Surfers Transit Terminal to find somewhere to have a long awaited reunion with the Lubedog!

Completely unaware of my new surroundings, I figured to find a notable landmark; none better than the giant neon guitar planted on top of the Hard Rock café. Surfers comes across as the epitome of the East Coast. The long drive up is often broken by stops at various road-houses with giant stuff on them; bananas, shrimps and I think I spotted a golf ball somewhere too. So in keeping with all things big Surfers has an abundance of high rise apartments and holiday homes that dominate the skyline.

After killing a chapter of my book, the Lubemeister showed up fresh from a day of cracking peoples backs into place, picked up the Geeza and returned back to the Lube-pad for a pasta dinner.

On the beers and into town, we met up with the Kiwi boys (bro), Matt and ended up in 'The Shack' where we successfully partied into the early hours.

I awoke in paradise, though not really feeling like I was in paradise physically. With my boardies on for the first time in what felt like an eternity, Lubedog, Matty and Geeza hit the beach for some hangover cures - Gold Coast Stylee. A swim, some body surfing (which I actually managed unlike the regular kind - an achievement!), and an almost chameleon like change to the colour of my skin - I was back feeling on top of the world.

Way back in February, I introduced the East Coasters to the best ribs on the West Coast, as a return favour, I was shown the most ribs on the East coast. With an 'all you can eat' ribs in the main precinct area of Surfers Paradise - as good for its people watching potential as its copius amounts of ribs, Billy Baxters served up 18 plates of ribs to 3 hungry mouths that afternoon. 3 fat guys waddled out.

The extreme pork intake took its toll and induced a 2hour coma to the 3 of us. When we got up it was time to go party again! Tonight we hit a few spots including 'The Party' and 'The Bedroom'. The bedroom was, a well memorable experience - nothing to do with all the female only bar staff dressed in corsetts, lingerie and stockings, no, err, I'm sure I had a point there but it's gone...

Sunday was a little of the same as Saturday - except without the ribs and the energetic night out to end it. After a great weekend, it was time for the Geeza to pack his bags, lose the dubbed persona once again, and move on further North through Brisbane and onto another Australian beach town.

editors note: I'm not sure how the picture of the barmaid arrived on my camera, but since it's my duty to tell all from this side of the world, I thought I was obliged to show you.

Exodus

Byron Bay

I left Gosford at around 7.30pm on my first Greyhound journey of the East Coast. After a couple of stops through the night, I rolled into sunny Byron Bay at 8am. I met a fellow Englishman and snowboarder guy called Mikey, the two of us made a habit in Byron of meeting up checking out the days ‘to do’ list and then ending up in Cheeky Monkeys, the big party night; every night in Byron. The first morning we checked out the lighthouse which has some amazing views of the Byron, you can easily spot Dolphins and Whales too – from quite a distance.

After getting the remainder of my East Coast trip planned and taking in some rays on the beach, it was time for my first backpackers dinner in a long time!

On my only full day in Byron, Mikey and myself took a daytrip with Jims Alternativ tours to Nimbin – the town famed throughout Australia as the place to go for high-times. The town is pretty weird to say the least, shops dedicated to the ancient arts of getting mellow, museums and a whole bunch of characters to stop and talk to for some very alternative takes on life.

After lunch we headed out to see a guy called Paul. Paul is an American that took a windfall some years back and bought a plot of land. His obsession with the plant world let his imagination run riot in creating the horticultural equivalent of Willy Wonkers Chocolate Factory. With pretty much every species of plant and tree he can grow on his patch, he’s really living his dream as a fresh bunch of tourists rolls in each day to share fresh fruit and Macadamia nuts.

I have to make a special point about the tour itself though – as well as the destinations and transit that you pay for, Jim; a little like myself, loves his music, and the whole tour is timed to perfection with apt tunes to make the atmosphere audible including an incredible number by the Floyd which runs for 5mins 12seconds – the exact same time as it takes Jim to boot the tour bus around a roller coaster course of hills in the hilly Northern New South Wales countryside.

Another big night in the Monkey meant a slightly later start on my final day, which I spent in true Byron style doing pretty much nothing but chilling and relaxing.

Copacabana

Flee was to fly to New Zealand the day after our Copacabana adventure so the three of us made sure to spend her last day in awesome style. The Hellfish borrowed his dads yacht and we took to the Hammerhead breeding grounds of the Hawkesbury River.

Although only a short distance North of Sydney, the weather was getting pretty good, so after cruising out to our chosen lunch spot, a secluded bay area, Decca and the Geeza donned wetsuits and went for a swim, yup – in a shark breeding ground. Though I was thinking “hey, if they’re breeding then they’re not gonna be worried about attacking me – make love not war eh?”. We were also armed with spear-fish guns so at least we wouldn’t be sitting ducks. After some snorkelling and taking another fear defying cliff jump, we climbed back on board the Lyric for some beers before thinking about cruising back to Machan’s Marina.

I’d been a bit lazy on the way out, so I was nominated as captain for the majority of the trip home… Decca and Flee lounged at the front of the boat. With the warm sun setting, my iPod providing an awesome soundtrack, life felt about as good as it could be. From the front of the boat though, Decca started waving to me to go left. I pulled out my ear plugs and he carried on waving left so I started to turn the vessel. Except with some confusion, he wanted me to go hard left. I didn’t and we, rudly hit a sandbank killing the mood instantly… oops. Luckily we got away with being able to reverse out and cruise on, rather than me have to jump in the water to effectively dig us out.

After clearing up the boat and getting packed up, we went into town for some pool, beers and Chinese food before heading back to Deccas cliff-top pad.

At something like 3 or 4am, I forget the exact details, the 3 of us got up to get Flee off to the train destined for Sydney airport. With seconds to spare, an emotional Flee waved goodbye before the carriages obscured the view… besides Decca and me were already headed back home celebrating… err, nah – just jokin Flee!

After getting some sleep, it was time to try some surfing again. Last time had been with Decca and the Lube-dog back in WA, now on the East coast – I still had little hope of even making it to the waves. True to form, I managed to cut my foot and get beat by those waves whilst Decca showed me how it was done.

A curry lunch, some final chores out of the way, it was time for the Hellfish and I to part company, and for me to take a final look from what's gotta be one of the best views to wake up to (below). I took a train to Gosford where I’d spend an hour or so waiting for my bus to the North-East tip of NSW.

No More Conversations

Ouch. I awoke sometime before midday Sunday and somewhere along the line, myself and Flee had decided to leave that evening. We had just one last bit of Sydney based fun to be had before I went North and she flew to New Zealand. Though we were way too late for it. The City 2 Surf run is an annual event where anyone not still drunk from the night before runs from the city centre to Bondi Beach.

We arrived as the majority of runners were getting on the bus home. Though it was a cracking day and a great atmosphere - almost like some kind of recognition that Summer wasn't too far off. I visited a few friends and said some goodbyes, some way harder than others. But eventually it was time to get back to the flat and pack up and leave. To say it was a rush would be an understatement but eventually, even after I managed to loose a train ticket to our next destination within 5minutes of buying it, we boarded a train out of Sydney to go visit our old mate Decca.

So with half a tonne of luggage, I was for the first time in many months "travelling" again. I don't really like it much if I'm brutally honest, I've made a great habit of finding good places to live in Australia, but it does open doors to the best experiences I've ever found. So with emotions again running high, a tear somewhere near my eye, it was time to say goodnight to Sydney - but not farewell.

In Da Club

Another August 10th rolled around for me, 27 years young, though I made sure to hold out until the actual hour of my UK birth to take on my new age tag, which worked out to be about 11pm (2pm UK) Australian time.

A day spent lunching in the Rocks with Pheebs, an afternoon eating Krispy Kremes with Fleebags and an evening eating as many pizzas as my gut would allow with Flee, Tom, Graeme & Charlotte at Zacharies in the Cross. After, we went next door to the World bar for a few quiet drinks and Indie night. Except as I made a huge point of it being my birthday on entrance, I was given a complimentary card to get beers and vodkas for $3 each. The quiet night ended up stretching out to a post 3am finish. Round 1 over.

Friday was spent recovering, posting possesions home and starting the long awaited and often questionable packing session. At least until the evening came around. Round 2 of the biggest weekend in a loooong time saw me start with the best intentions. I met up with my old Centric work mates for some Friday night refreshments. I managed to pace myself for the first couple of drinks but soon my stomach was hardened and slipped back into top gear - even if I was drinking nothing but my new friend, sparkling white. Amazing - you get a drink, and a piece of fruit in for the bargain! To my surprise, Friday turned out to be a great evening topped off with drinks by the harbourside before meandering back to Coogee on the bus.

Woozy, I awoke to a gorgeous sunny Saturday which helped drive me from the realms of feeling sorry for myself to go for a walk & read; down by the beach until the fresh air had worked its magic. Some more packing, and we were nearly ready to head out for round 3 - the big one.

After meeting our friends in the city, we headed to Star City on Darling Harbour, where I once again learned in a quick instant - that gambling for the worlds unluckiest gambler does not pay well. A failed attempt at getting into the uber-busy 17th floor bar had us a little sadened before the night was injected with a shot of something good in the form of the last great club-night out in the cross - 'Le Panic'. The music, surroundings and especially the people took everyone up a level and on my last night out in this great city, I didn't plan on leaving quick.

The Importance of Being Idle

Monday 14th August. Something will change completely. But I don't know what. I could hit the road again, travel up the East Coast and carry on with my Round the World Ticket, or I will move house, beach and suburb and take on a new job. I hope to know by the end of this week, but until I do - I'll just make the most of my last few days based in Coogee.

Royal National Park
On my bike again, I shot into Sydney to catch a train South from Central station to 'Waterfall' - the Southern most rail station bordering the worlds "Oldest Gazzetted National Park". Off the train I found my way to the park entrance before notching up a new top speed on the bike of 55kph; downhill of course. Brakepads smokin', I carried on around the twists and turns of the parks entry. I found the famed falls which weren't really too amazing I guess since there hadn't been much rain lately, though the surroundings were lovely, loads of overhanging rocks and tall trees to really let you know you're in a rainforest - 30kms South of Australias biggest city.

Onward I carried on the tarmac until I found the Lady Carrington Drive (bike trail) turnoff... however I figured it would be a waste to come this far and not see the apparantly stunning coast line so I detoured uphill for a couple of kms to view Garie beach. I had planned to go to the beach but seeing how much elevation I'd have lost - I couldn't face the uphill struggle back again, so I settle for a great view at a lookout point.

Again, +50kph I twisted my way back down to the bike trail. My book had said it was the premiere ride in NSW, after the Blue Mountains it would take some convincing. I was well impressed. Huge trees, murky rivers and tropical vegetations growing from all directions kept me company as I gunned the trail. 10kms later and I came out at a clearing, so spent the best part of an hour basking (resting) in the sun listening to tunes (the main ingredient missing on my last great bike ride in the Blue Mountains).

After picking up some refreshments, I was ready (ish) to climb the hill back outta the park, back into Sutherland for a train back to Sydney... and of course another final ride back to Coogee from Central station - 48ks covered today, I didn't do too much else that evening.




Golf
Since November last year, my backpack had curiously to onlookers contained 4 golfballs, 10 tees and a golfers glove. I finally decided to put them to use and visit 18 Ozzie holes by the sea.

The Coast Golf Club was the venue, just down the road from where I'm living - it's one of 3 courses conveniently located together on the Sydney clifftops.

My form was ropey as a noose. I blame firstly, my epic bike ride the previous day, the fact I was borrowing clubs and spent the round getting used to them, the fact the light was changing and confused me a whole deal, the fact that my glove didn't fit properly, the fact I was at times hungry, the fact I'm getting older, the fact that sometimes my ball got dirty, the fact it was wet underfoot, the fact that there were dirty great cliffs and canyons that you had to hit across... oh, and the fact I've never played upside down before.

Besides all that, I hit a few good balls and made par on a grand total of... err, one hole.

What a view though, playing most of the holes there was a real pleasure and with the boys, we had a great time on what would've been just another Wednesday. The beers at the 19th hole capped off another cruizy Sydney day in the sunshine... mostly.

Tired of Hangin Around

My life, my jobless life... what next?

The question I asked myself as I awoke on Monday, the only answer I could figure to keep me from going nuts until I left Sydney 2 weeks later, was to find a new job. I figured I'd go for some basic temp work just to keep me outta the house for a while. However I've never really looked for that kinda work and within minutes of updating my CV, I was applying for more city based contracts and wandering why and if I would stay in Sydney any longer. Very confused.

The last job took me a good 3 weeks of beavering away to find, at the end of my first day back job hunting, I had 2 interviews. As the days of the week ticked by I'd been offered a job or two, but nothing I was really keen on doing. So instead, I decided not to.

Midweek, I got up at some stupid time to go take photographs of the sunrise (the only way to see a low slung sun over the East coast of Australia). It was pretty amazing to see more people awake and out pre 7am than any other time (barring the weekends). After feeling all the better for watching the first rays break from the distantly clouded horizon I wandered back home where I let Charlotte - Flees sister back in to Apt 4 Beach Street after her East Coast travels came to a close. We let rip on some travellers tales, before heading into the city to make various lunch dates.

I'd put off visiting Manly until the weather improved significantly to actually enjoy a day at the beach. Lucky enough we picked the very best of the Winter Sun to head off on the city ferry to Manly beach. Manly was the last big tourist pull that I'd not been to in Sydney; it had been billed to me as a classier beach resort with far less of Bondi's OTT-ness. This is pretty much how it was, and after making the obligatory surf shop purchase, we headed down to the sands to catch our first Vitamin D for months. I couldn't quite believe how nice the day was and how warm and empty the beach was.

After an hour of being lazy I got itchy feet and took a walk to each end of the beach, Cabbage Tree bay was absolutely gorgeous tucked out of the breeze and sporting a nice little park as soon as the beach itself finished. Though I had to rush back to the city shortly after this for an interview and then on Friday - a follow up interview with shirt, suit and tie.

Fridays weather in short sucked big. I decided to hibernate whilst waiting for the weekend to show up. Me and the girls got in George Clooneys Syriana DVD and nearly fell asleep. Queue a visit from an old friend to help kick start us. Decca came down to visit and with him, he brought a great idea of Jaegermeister to get us off and running. After a pizza dinner, we polished off a bottle of the herbie stuff in just over an hour and then were rejuvenated suitably to get ourselves out into the city.

Minus 5 was our strange choice for 'warm-up' drinks, refridgerated down to below minus 5 degrees, you borrow eskimo coats and thick gloves to hold your cocktail glasses made from ice. 30mins and 2 cocktails later our cool time was up. A shifty cab ride across the city and we got caught up in the Cargo Bar. It seemed the Jaeger-bombs and chilly cocktails were a good recipe for dancin-juice as we all went a bit nuts and threw out some wild shapes.

Last stop was to be the Cross... again, though I haven't tired of the place. Dragonfly. Wow, disco balls. It was like the Acme disco ball factory in there. Drinks. Many. Something about 4am and it was time to sleep.

With no work on the horizon, the pressure to make the most of weekends was well and truly nullified. So we did nothing.