American Dream

Napa

After getting a little lost and thrown a little off course, it was almost fate that the time I'd wasted meant I'd see an awesome sunset as I crossed a bridge over Vallejo.

I'd known my Californian friend Lisa for nearly 2 years and though she wasn't in town, I got to meet and stay with her family. I couldn't have wished for any more from my time with them. After first meeting Erica and Teena, we went to pick Gina up from her youth group where I was recieved like a celebrity; it's been a while since anyone has found it rare to meet an Englishman!
With a whole bunch of friends, we headed off to 'In n Out Burger' - a pretty big phenomenon in California - the alternative to the obvious offers good value and good quality food - much fresher and bespoke than yer average McWhopper.

My full day in Napa began in leisurely fashion; breakfast with Carl & Teena at a nice Al Fresco place near to their home. At midday, we headed to the wineries that the area is famed for. It was quite a different experience to the Australian ones, since the vineyards are much more commercialised and also charge for the tastings. The afternoon took us to Beringer, Beaulieu Vineyards and a brief visit to Francis (Godfather) Coppolas place.

Today was though, memorable mainly for the cuisine. We stopped at Rutherfords for lunch where I was recommended the French Dip which was gorgeous, the best thing I've eaten stateside.

The evening was pure apple pie it was so American; friends over, home baked cookies, basketball (at least 10years since I last played basketball, it was so much fun I hadn't expected!) on the drive way and then some star gazing to end the evening.

With Friday dawning, I was back on the road again, but not before a visit to Ginas school; "Vintage High School". She gave me a guided tour of the huge campus and a special intro at her choir clas. A little on the spot, I was asked to say something to show off my accent. So I asked "Who would like to join me for a cup of tea?" in my best Hugh Grant English possible. I don't think I ever made so many people in one room laugh before, so red cheeked I took my seat...

Any Colour You Like

Yosemite

My dad has run his barber shop since way before I was on this Earth, and since then, he's had the choice of the best calendars each year. Sometimes English countrside, sometimes the Simpsons, but the one that's made the most repeat showings is Ansell Adams work - which usually uses Yosemite National Park in a good percentage of pictures.

So when my hair was cut, I always had a look and became quite fascinated with these amazing waterfall & mountainous Black & White photographs. Finally I could go to stomp those grounds myself - though what I didn't know before was just how large this park is (there's no swings, climbing frames either, and unlike my local park, no Somerfiled nextdoor!).

At 5.55am, I was driving up Tioga Pass into Yosemite as the sun rose, ligthing the tips of the mountains around me. Much like my trip to and around Mammoth, it didn't take long before I'd stop for photography. Again, I can't really begin to describe the scenery. Some of the pictures go some way to show, but you have to go for yourself - you just have to!

For the first 2 hours, I had the park roads practically to myself. The roads followed by picture postcard lake views started it off, before I went wandering into the fields, before running straight back to the car for the cold morning air!

I discovered the gorgeous crystal waters of Lake Tenaya before succumbing to the winding roads once again. A few dozen quick lefts and rights and I stumbled upon the last stop of the East to West Yosemite road - Tuolone Grove. The air had warmed and I was restless so decided to take this hike. As I descended the hillside (used in winter for cross country skiing), I soon saw one of the worlds largest living organisms - the great Redwood Sequoia tree. As well as being huge in height and girth, they can live for thousands of years - if an old one falls, it's wood takes 300 years to rot and decompose.

Enough of the nature lesson, I was starting to descend into the Yosemite valley to check out the jewels of the park (and take a little more rubber from the Mustangs tyres).

From here on in, I'll just leave you with some pictures from the day.

By mid afternoon, I'd made it up high to glacier point and then hiked to the sentinel dome - central to all the big sites in the park. The lovely blue skies gave way to some cloud and then rain. Everyone ran for cover, but in a short while the rain had stopped. I started my trip back out of the park and stumbled on some luck. The rain had moved into a perfect position over El Capitain and Cathedral rocks (right) and formed the rainbow bridge between the two.

I spent the night in Mariposa; a pretty dull town but good enough. Up bright and early I took advantage of the pool before heading into the South entrance of the park. Here is the Mariposa grove where more Sequoia trees grow, a nice walk seeing the biggest, some twin trees (conjoined) and one that looks like a clothes peg, and the oldest tree in the park at 1800 years -still not looking a day over 1538.

I finished up with some more fantastic driving and then finally half hour in my favourite spot watching the waters of the Merced river go by.

I took the West and only exit/entrance I'd not been through yet. An amazing winding road led me down to Oakdale, nothing but a small piece of Armco to stop out of control vehicles plummeting hundreds of feet below!

As the hills became a little less rugged, I was headed back toward the coast and San Francisco.

Parklife

Mammoth Lakes

I arrived in a familiar town just as the sunlight diminished and managed to get a pretty well priced room that came with brekkie and jacuzi.

I figured I should go see what nightlife I could find; actually, last year we made modifications to our snowboards in the Mammoth brewery carpark. It wasn't open back then, but tonight it was! So I picked up my cheapest and best beer in the US so far, met some Dutch guys and played free pool before showing off the Mustang to 'em.


A good nights sleep, shower - and even the luxury of a hairdryer - I was ready to explore Ansell Adams Wildnerness. I tookthe Ford around some of the winding country roads first. By the time I made it past the Mammoth landmark, I'd woken up properly and was really glad of the drive down to visit the Devils Postpile National Monument. Tight twists & turns coupled with unparalleled mountain views.

Finally on foot, I took a small trek around the area. The two main sites were the Rainbow falls; which took the longest to get to but was a great walk in amongst the chipmonks and deer. By that point I was walking with a few Californians that did their best to show me the sights.

On the way back to the car, I got the best view of the Devils Postpile. I don't know how it was formed, other than something to do with a volcanic eruption, but the hexagonal rocks were similar in appearance to the devils causeway in Ireland.

The afternoon drive back to town was a true highlight as I drove the Mustangs socks off back up the mountain pass and back past the deserted dry ski-slopes.

Time to move on again, I took the loop around June lake & mountain and ended up in Lee Vining - a small town set at the bottom of the Tioga Pass into Yosemite Park and right next to Mono Lake.

Going For Gold

Death Valley

I purchased a road map of California back in Auckland and planned (not so) meticulously my route around Cali for the 11days available. Today taught me some sort of lesson about this. I figured I'd have no time for Death Valley so concentrated on some other national parks. Where I hadn't looked so carefully - a glaring hole in my plan; no thru-road to cross the mountains to Sequoia National Park, and by the time I'd realised, I was about 140miles away from correcting the mistake.

So instead, I ate a sandwich and stared at the map and formulated a new plan.

I spent the day mainly crossing Death Valley Park. I didn't see a tree from Nevada to the other side of the park - jus scrub, sand, rocks, large crows - and a bunch of cool stuff.

The "Devils Cornfields" were some sand-dunes - a little too ho for me to hang around on, but on my walk back I saw some kind of cyclone. Weird thing was, there was NO wind around me but still something caused the sand to swirl up around 20ms from me - impressive - I got a video too!

A short while on, I abandoned the A/C for open windows, the roadsigns frequently remind you of overheating. It was around the 30degree mark I think - very dry, but the sun was so strong you couldn't stand around long without shade.

I hadn't expected much of this Valley except desert, but it made me stop the car to take pictures nearly every 10minutes - the views and the raw size of the place just makes your jaw drop - at it's lowest point you reach 0ft (sea level), and at other points you go beyond 4000ft.

The sign thanking you for visiting finally went by the window, and so with it the first trees I'd seen all day started o appear. The scenery rapidly changes over the next 100 miles North West to some of the best I've ever seen. Nearly every twist and turn in the road offered something new - something I was gonna have to get used to over the next few days.

After some tea in a town called Bishop, where my accent was really starting to get me noticed, I headed a little further North into the Inyo National forest - an area I will definitely return to to look at with a little more time. But soon arrived in a little town I visited last year with 3 friends and my snowboard in the back of an SUV.

Viva Las Vegas

Nevada

I like US Hostels - they give you free pancakes each morning for brekkie. With my fill of those I was ready to go walk the Strip - or as much of it as I could manage in a day. I took the Mustang to the Mirage and got parked up. You walk in the place and see a huge aquarium with a bucket load of fishes. Then on past Caesers Palace and into New York New York. This place replicates as much of NYC as possible; mini versions of the buildings, stores selling the NY merchandise and best of all; those New York taxi rides in what I found from experience to be quite accurate - the Manhattan Express roller Coaster gives you a thrill ride from start to finish.

I wandered in the Luxor, the Bellagio, but as I wasn't gambling, I found the shopping taking most of my attention - so I decided to leave the casino's and concentrate on bargain hunting instead. Pretty soon I had a couple of bags on the ends of my arms. I'd checked out the Coke and M&M shops - to see just how much stuff other than soft drinks and candy you could sell with a brand on it - turns out there was a whole load!

After the filling breakfast I'd gone most of the day without food - so went for a treat by way of a rack of prime ribs. I was hungry - but I was served: bread & butter - nearly a whole loaf, a large salad, a bowl of baked beans, a bowl of coleslaw, then the main course of course. I left much heavier than when I arrived so went about burning some cals wandering some more casinos, and malls. I found the one in Aladdins with the sky painted on the ceiling - complete with on the half hour thunder and rain storms. I'd just about had enough so headed back to the car and the hostel in Downtown.

I got washed and then headed downstairs to meet a limo tour I'd booked thru the accomodation - a ride in a stretch jeep (not a Hummer) around the Vegas sights and sounds before heading back into New York New York for the Coyote Ugly night - unfortunately I'd left my ID at home, so was refused entry, so along with a dutch guy in our party - we found some beers and then put a couple of bucks in a video blackjack machine. I came out 25c up. Check me out - 1st trip to Vegas and leaving on top of the game!

We met back up with the tour and headed this time to a bar called the House of Blues. Far from the best club I ever went to, it was good fun and a few of us partied hard until the early hours... a certain someone forgetting that he had to be up extra early to get in a days transit and sightseeing!

So I managed to get myself out by about 10.30am, sadly missing todays pancakes. But that was Vegas done with and I was headed North up highway 95 through Nevada. I managed to work out the cruise control in the car which made things way easier as I gunned it along past the sand, rocks and Spring Mountain range. The heat was starting to take it's toll as I neared Death Valley desert so I took some time out to plan the days route properly over a bottle of ice cold water at Nevada Joes.

Muscle Car

USA, California


Late in the day, I'd gotten sloppy with travel arrangments and for some reason thought I'd be in America within about 6hours from Rarotonga. Including a transit stop in Papeete, Tahiti, I was staring at a 12 hour trip with 3hrs in time difference to add too. So 2 more flights with the ageing Air New Zealand fleet were endured - though I did get a good 6hours kip before we landed at LAX at about 2pm.

On my way out of the terminal I met Adam randomly that I'd had a night out or two with back in Syndey. But with no time to spare, I headed to Budget to pick up Compact Ford which would be my home on wheels for the next 11days. Though I had a pleasent surprise when I arrived - the car I'd reserved had been allocated already so I was given a free upgrade.

Now, since an early age, I've dreamed of driving a bright red 2 door car with a prancing horse on the front. Today was nearly my day - I arrived at bay B24 to find a 4litre V6 Bright Red Mustang coupe awaiting my arrival. Better still, the stereo (which sounds fantastic) is tricked up with MP3 capability.

My mind body and now wheels were ready to roll with just one huge obstacle to overcome - Los Angeles traffic before and during rush hour on a Friday.

Eventually away from the airport, I passed Inglewood and an hour or two later Ontario before finally (3hours, 80 miles) getting onto Highway 15 headed North.

I got to see the infamous LA sunset in my rear view mirror - the sun well diffused by the city smog and other atmospherics.

Hungry, thirsty and well in need of a bathroom break, I stopped at the first available eatery - the Golden Arches; I guess I've made a habit of sampling every nations famous dishes. After my burger, I stocked up on some junk food and sugarfree red bull (hey, I'm watching my figure!) and got on the road for the remaining 216miles of todays drive.

The first 50miles were the toughest. I was well ready for a sleep, so I cracked open the pop which got me back on planet Earth enjoying the rare sight that passed me by - there's not many as you pass South of Death Valley desert - at night. With 100miles to go, the light pollution of Las Vegas made a dim sillhouette of the distant mountains, and as I crossed the state border from California to Nevada, the immediate option to gamble at Buffalo Bills was there.

30miles to go I could see a column of lights firing direct into the sky, I'd later find out this was from the Luxor casino - the brightest spot light in the world I think?!

Finally, on a red bull induced level of consicousness, the horizon lit up as "The Strip" came into view. I got a full tank of gas in before my 1st cruise down the Strip - not so much a cruise, more a stop/start traffic jam for 4miles of brash neon and OTT advertising for anything and everything - my first impression? My eyes were buzzing and I was looking forward to having a proper explore of this place. But after 12hours on a plane, followed by nearly 8hours in a car driving, I was ready to sleep. Sleep Good.

Hurry Up and Wait

Rarotonga

After time seemed to come to a near standstill on Aitutaki, I couldn't wait to get back to Raro, mainly since it was just about 40hours there before I'd fly on to my next destination.
I arrived back at my hostel and caught up with the guys there. In a spur of the moment decision, myself and Jez took his Jeep to the North side of the island to meet some others for the cross island walk. After trekking around the world, I wasn't expecting much of this walk - but it turned out to be really good fun and pretty challenging.

The trek took us first through some grassy hills onto the hillside which would take us all the way to the 'Needle' - a large spire of rock - one of Rarotongas tallest land features. Once we reached the base of the Needle, myself and Jez ventured on further up the rock - at one point (in the picture) only a chain was there to save you from falling many metres to a probable certain death - I was glad to avoid that anyway.

The route South was easy enough to follow - since a stream meanders nearly the whole way back, though you have to cross it quite a few times and the rocks made for a few slip ups and wet feet.

As we finally got to the South Coast, the heavens opened and we got absoutely saturated. We managed to hitch hike our way back to town before getting ourselves dried off and ready for an evening on the town.

A bunch of us met up at the Banana Bar - which up until now was something I thought that existed only in Amsterdam - luckily the only surprises we'd recieve here was a free Screwdriver - the cocktail variety. We took a trip back thru Trader Jacks and onto the Whatever bar again before the town turned off it's lights at midnight.

The rain was again pouring down in paradise as I got up - so with a day getting my blog up to date and my bags packed for my next trip, I was ready and getting pretty excited to return to a normal - more frantic pace of life, which I have to say, I prefer infinitely to Island life such as this - I'd go cookin' crazy with another week here!

Pacific Palisades

Cook Islands - Aitutaki

I arrived on Aitutaki island as the sun was setting - and after the most straight forward flight I ever took - I was in a good mood for chillaxin'. I'd arrived at the departure airport 20minutes before the flight, checked in and sat down before a guy shouts across the departure area "Okay you lot, let's get outta here!". We landed and within 5minutes, I had my bags and was ready for my transfer. Too easy.

A driver took me to my accomodation; Josies Lodge, which I'd read in the Lonely Planet was a nice basic place to stay, close to the beach etc etc. I may as well have stepped onto Mars for all I knew. I walked into what looked like someones house - opened a double door and a long corridor with an illuminated kitchen was awaiting me 15metres ahead. I called "hello" - no response. I walked on a little further, as a Yoda like figure sillhouted in front of me. It was a 90 year old woman - Josie. She was silent - so I said hello and asked if there were any rooms available, no response. Again, I asked, still nothing. "Is this Josies Lodge?", "Yeah, Josies Lodge" she finally blurted in a strong accent. The awkward exchange went on a while and eventually I'd agreed to stay for 2 nights (and then later for the other 2 nights here on the island) in one of the dodgiest looking rooms I'd come across on my travels.

There was just one other guest - a Swedish man in his forties that became one of my chat buddies whilst whiling away the quiet evenings on Aitutaki. This was a bit of a problem on Aitutaki - unquestionably one of the most gorgeous places I've ever visited - the biggest problem for me, was that it's also a magnet for honeymooners.

Still, I was more than happy to be able to while away the days on a nice hot beach; that, unlike Raro - stayed hot and sunny all day!. So this is what I did, with a bit of scooter exploring, and the third leg of Lukes football world tour. Thailand and Oz on the beach, now I got to play with the national side of Aitutaki! Okay so they're the only ones on the island that play football but I'll still claim this - and that the boy Fonfara - sadly not pictured this time, did manage to stuff the onion bag with a thundering long shot. It took some adjustment playing with these guys - most of which play Rugby as a 1st sport and hadn't seemed to have heard of a forward thru-ball.

My last day rolled around, I was picked up by the Kia Orana Lagoon Cruise company - for a bit of what it says on the tin. This particular "Cruise" takes you around the Motu's of Aitutaki. Motu is the local word for anything "cut off" which is how they class the little islets around the mainland (incidentally the population here is less than 1850). You may well have seen a few of these Motu's before on the US TV show "Survivor" in recent years - all shot here - as well as the UK show "Shipwrecked" which was filming while I was there - they have two of the islets for exclusive private use. I was a little disappointed in truth to know that the rest of the world had already seen this place!

So we visited a few of the others including Honeymoon island - which was just a small sandback up until the 80's when a Cyclone shifted enough sand for it to establish some plant life and extra size. We had lunch here - a local Smorgasbord of fruity, rooty delights. After lunch, the early morning cloud cover had vanished, and sunlight from above, now unlocked the most beautiful oceanic colours I've ever seen.

It was time for some snorkelling. As I plunged into the amazingly clear water - with visibility perhaps at around the 40metres mark, I swam down to look at the giant clams and reef life. About 15minutes in, I was in pursuit of taking a photo of a little orange fish when, as I went to surface, the current moved me suffciently close to the reef. Before I knew it, I had a stinging pain on the back of my left leg where I'd brushed the razor like surface. Back on the boat there was Claret oozing out all over my foot. No more snorkelling for me today. Luckily I managed to treat it pretty quick and the injury is making a swift recovery. Regardless of the cut leg, this was my most fun day on Aitutaki by far and will remember my time here most fondly with this.

After another game of football, I was ready to check out an Island Night - another of the Lonely Planets hot tips for the Cook Islands. Here there is local food prepared and served, before a show of music and dance performed by the Aitutakians. Sadly - or fortunatly, I arrived a little late so was unable to share in the feast - with all the couples!

I left Aitutaki with a great colour, and a good feeling that I had found what I'd been looking for - a personal paradise. It was though - way too personal, and I wouldn't recommend anyone visit anywhere like this alone. I was literally the only person on my beach for nearly every hour I spent there.

Back in Time

Cook Islands - Rarotonga

I left Auckland on Thursday, and was soon passing the international date line - so I was instantly transported back in time 24hours to Wednesday - damn I wish I'd taken notice of the sports results to make some extra cash betting!

So the jet touched down on Raro - the capital island of the Cook Islands - there's a whole bunch of islands which are all quite far apart - like 40mins flying time each. Raro has about 8,000 inhabitants I believe so it was never gonna be too busy or stressful here. I came here in the twilight of my world tour hoping to find paradise one last time. I'd heard of the islands surrounded by lagoon, coral reefs and pretty fishes, I'd even seen the sunset pics of the beaches. What I got first though was a completely out of the blue culture shock.

I walked into the terminal building at the airport and a little guy on a stage was plucking away and singing his heart out on the Eukalele. Cute I thought. I left with my baggage and saw many passengers getting the floral reef around the neck treatment - though since I was going budget - there would be no such festivities for poor old Luke!

I hopped in a taxi with a woman from my hostel who chatted to me the whole way there - with an accent not too dissimilar to Jar Jar Binks! It was dark so I couldn't gauge what the climate would be like but it felt nice and warm so that was a good start.

The morning came, and pretty soon, I realised I wasn't in my comfort zone, Cook Islands time is about as reliable as a raft made of biscuit. The money was funny, and there weren't very many people around. Especially in my creepily empty hostel. Thankfully after a day walking many miles just for something to do once the sun had gone in, I met Al, a dive master staying at my hostel.

The following days I took a bike out about town to see a little more and pick up my flight vouchers for my upcoming excursion to another of the Cook Islands.

Friday night rolled around so Al and I hit the town - quite a unique experience really since the clubs and bars actually havea good mix of locals and tourists - unlike anywhere I'd been previously to my recollection - it's usually all of one or the other. We soon got chatting to some local and had a great night partying to all of 1993's greatest hits.

As luck would have it, my final day saw a group of lads land in my hostel. Luckily they would still be there when I returned 4 days later...

End of the World

Auckland

My original plans for New Zealand were to spend a couple of months here exploring and maybe even working before carrying on my trip. Though since I've now used up 11 of my 12 months away, I have been forced to abandon these plans for the time being in order to do some justice to my final few stops before returning back to the UK.

So it was a pleasent surprise that I was able to get so much out of my little 4 day city break in Auckland. On my first day I met up with Flee again, completely unexpected until a few days ago as we realised we would cross each others paths for one last time on these tours of ours. She introduced me to her new mate Dan and soon we were eating at a Gelato on the harbour side.

We had a wander round the city before winding up at the base of the sky tower. Myself and Flee took the high speed elevator ride to the top to take in the sunset from 220metres up. It's amazing that Auckland is home to a third of the entire NZ population yet still remains so quiet. Even rush hour seemed like bliss!

Later on that evening the 3 of us met up for a meal - one I'd been owed for another bet we'd made back in Sydney - almost worth losing the hair on my leg all those months ago!

With Flee making an early morning exit from New Zealand for Fiji. I was left to my own devices. I checked out and hit the pavement armed with my little tourist map and a renewed enthusiasm now some sun was actually shining down on Auckland.

I hit the pavement and found a route that went from coast to coast passing by several of Auclands 40+ volcanoes. The first stop was Albert Park - flowers, fountains, benches, statues and trees - very nice. Then I wandered past Auckland Uni and into the Auckland Domain. The domain is home to the Main museum and WinterGardens that I passed by.

The weather was now warm enough to lose my jacket. I eventually found my way to the base of Mt.Eden - the tallest Volcanic hill - at 192metres that gave me some great panoramas of Auckland, and more impressive, allows you to look 50metres down into the volcanic crater - now very grassy rather than black, smokey and full of lava!

By this point I'd already walked a fair distance and was half way through the walk, so decided to double back into the city. So I picked a different route to get back for a bit of variation. The way back down was nice and was the first real feeling of 'being in New Zealand' - by this I mean, the lush Green pastures coupled with that Lord of The Rings feel; even if I'm actually a long way from where all that stuff was filmed.

I got back into the city and checked out some of the backstreet shopping before it was time for me to go meet Nick. Last time had been Sydney, Perth before that, and Ko Lanta, Thailand before that. Together with Lucy, we wandered back to their apartment and spent the evening catching up.

My final full day in Auckland would be about sorting out the remaining weeks of my trip and planning the next, then getting some culture in me - and we ain't talking yoghurt here. I met with Dan for lunch and then headed to the New Zealand Art Gallery to check out the free exhibits.

The final stages of the afternoon were spent getting the last of my flights confirmed for my route back to the UK and then having a final dinner with Nick and Lucy. We again commented on how weird it had been to bump into each other at all these remote destinations around the world - now, Nick and I have seen each other in Europe, America, Asia and Australasia (though not all on this trip) - but we've become surprisingly blase about it. It's with this that I realise that my final post from as far ahead in time as I can get (+11hrs) will soon be followed by my first post from one of the places furthest back in time (-11hrs)...