Pink on White Walls

Perisher, NSW, Australia
With a few days till the weekend, myself and Lauren decide to hit the mountains for the weekend. After booking accomodation on Tuesday, I had a couple of days to get excited about the best Australian snow season since I've been here.

I managed to make an early dash from work, and by around 4.30pm, we were headed out of Sydney, and by 10pm we'd reached the country town of Cooma, NSW. Up early, and - we made the hours drive to the Perisher valley behind many other snow-sportsman and woman with similar plans to ours. The last time I came here, there was no snow visible until the actual slopes, and all that was man-made. This time, there was heaps of the stuff from miles before the first lift came into sight. Today however, would not be about the search for powder stashes and hot lines, but about someone elses first turns on snow. So together, I did my best to teach Lauren to ride snowboard. Sadly, some kind of virus took its toll on me and we had to call it off fairly early - though we'd enjoyed a few fun runs on the Perisher front valley, we had decided it was a little too busy for comfort.

A night back in Cooma, and I think the extra rest sorted me out, and maybe a little help from the snow Gods, who'd been kind throughout Saturday afternoon and left some nice fresh surfaces to play on, on Sunday. This time, we hit up Smiggins and Laurens boarding came a long way. She was putting in turns both ways, along with some ancient falling leaf, and some 'ever funny, stacks'. While Loz took time outs, I would jump on the T-Bar and head to the summit for some speed. I was also fortunate enough to spot a short hike to a nice 5-6ft drop off cornice. I was content hitting this up several times for the day and cutting my way back through some fresh before hitting the groomers at great speed back to the car parks.

By my reckoning, it was about 2 o clock, when Lauren made her most significant breakthru yet... she stayed upright off a ski-lift!

After 3, we called it a weekend and packed the car for the loooooong ride back to Sydney. I do however, love this part of New South Wales, possibly the most of any part I've visted so far, and took many timeouts to jump from the car to take some photographs as the sun painted a watercolour sky behind weathered gum trees. Lovely. The 5hr drive home as usual, sucked.

Darkside/Lightside

Week 2 - Gulmarg

The whole group took a lay day at around the half way mark of the trip to let our muscles recover from the intensive time they had endured and we went to try out one of the only Western food joints in town. Apparently, there would be an internet connection there too! To our dismay though, the current power outage meant no pizza, and no computer connection for the internet. The dodgiest Chicken burger ever managed not to upset our stomachs and we wandered back to our hotel past the ice rink… which had about 30 men clearing 1 metre of snow from its surface. They would bring a large sheet of tarpaulin down to ice rink level, fill her up and sling it over their shoulders. This would then be emptied off in a heap 20metres away. I wasn’t envious of them.

It was Sunday, when, the second phase of the Gondola finally opened its doors to us. As we rose up to its final altitude of 3950metres above sea level, there were only several lines below us and we had the pick of fresh to gun through on our way to personal snow sport hedonism.

As it was our guide’s day off, we had to be careful, so with some caution we headed back down virtually under the gondola – the only “patrolled” area in all of Gulmarg.

This was what we had come to Kashmir for.

An 8 month wait finally at end, as we bombed the Kashmiri slopes and sprayed more white powder into the sky than any Columbian drug baron could ever dream of. I lead the pack momentarily, and spotted a small hill that had perfect snowfall on it, untouched, glistening like a diamond encrusted wedding gown. As fast as I could, I carved one huge turn, looking back to see a huge rooster tail of snow thrown skywards and into the sun; a temporary eyeful of daytime twinkle stars. I dropped back into the valley to see Chris drop a 6ft boulder, land and ride away… we were both in some kind of wonderland; Kashmiri wonderland.

I now have a new “happy place” that I shall return to many times in months and maybe years to come; this was one of the greatest feeling moments of my life.

***

As people around the world faced the ‘dread’, my Monday morning was filled with anything else but… well, aside from the physically demanding task of summiting Gulmargs highest peak. From the top gondola station, our gang strapped boards and ski’s to their packs, put heads down and strutted up hill toward what had been the highest point visible for the past week or so. Winds were sweeping across rapidly, and to look into the wind would cause an amount of pain I’d rather not think too much about. I trudged in others footsteps, and got higher and higher. Roger and I reached the dizzy heights of the summit together, high fived and set about photographing our surroundings as quick as possible. The only problem here was the temperature; around minus 20 degrees, had all but killed my camera battery, so a few shots before thinking about putting a snowboard back under my soles and getting away from these inhospitable temperatures.

As I awaited the rest of the group to attach their boards, my feet were yelling for help. They were the coldest I can ever remember them being. I wasn’t sure how they might react to having to steer me down a steep powdery mountain face. My bindings too, had frozen; I had a struggle trying to get them to lock into place. After they did, I took my turn in the first stage of descent, and to my annoyance, my left foot fell out of lock and I took a tumble. I whimpered down before I could get them fixed up.

Happily, the group including myself, made one of the best runs of the trip so far. Powder turn after wide, fast powdery turn… this is why I was here, this is why I went to Milton Keynes indoor slope all those years ago, this is snowboarding and the rush it gives me.

At The Foot of The Mountain

Gulmarg, Kashmir - Week 1

Gulmarg is Indias premiere snow sports resort. It has a 2 phase gondola section that gives a vertical rise of 3950metres. There are one or two drag lifts, but these are off limits to snowboarders… and they only service relatively flat areas anyhow. Once at the top of the Gondola, you can either ride one area of ‘patrolled’ terrain, or, if you’re experienced enough, you can go into some serious back country. It is for this reason you must have an avalanche shovel, a probe and a transceiver on you at all times.

The top phase of the Gondola is very subjectively open, and so on days when it is closed, there are many runs you can slash up under the tree line. The quirk here is though, you need a car to drive you back to the top.

Day one of our massively anticipated riding finally dawned. After breakfast, which was my first non-curry meal of the trip we congregated outside the hotel awaiting our guides arrival. The snow had stopped falling, and the sky was blue – it was almost too perfect to be starting this adventure in such beautiful fashion. Local dogs came to see what was happening, snow monkeys carried on with their business in the trees nearby and purple tinged crows flew over head as we tested avalanche beacon equipment. I’d sunk into the deep snow several times just heading over to where we would clip in, and as I knelt down to fasten my new board to my feet for the first time, I finally felt ‘on holiday’ – with all the long, lengthy, tiring traveling behind me.

I watched as a couple of others dropped off the snowy ledge and with the excitement now too much to bear, I too dropped in. My new Burton Fish surprising me with how easy it was to maneuver. A first look at the first phase of the gondola was something else to behold – bearing in mind, we still couldn’t see where it would finally end up – some 4000metres above sea level, for cloud cover still surrounded the upper peaks. The lift ticket system has been something that I think makes or breaks a good resort in Europe, America and Oceania – and I would quickly get annoyed if I had to dig out a pass each time I rode a lift; rather than an electronic pass system… Gulmarg has it’s own charm however. An Indian man sits in the corner near the pickup zone and sells each ride to you individually. In return you receive a voucher for your ride; the sponsors slogan mis-spelt “Stronger than the Stogest”. I decided this could get old quickly but didn’t realize how few times I would need to do this throughout the trip. To compare Gulmarg to anywhere else I’d ever been would be totally unfair however. This trip is the perfect fusion of my two favourite pastimes; traveling to remote locations, and sliding down snowy hills on carbon fibre core planks of wood.

At mid station, the relatively clear sky allowed our first looks of the mountain Affarwat, that just has to be seen to appreciate it’s full wonder. The peak still shrouded in cloud, and a queue solidly formed to get to the final phase of the lift, we rode the lower section several times. Fresh powder made the trips first few runs very enjoyable indeed, and each new run heralded a “better than the last run” feeling.

After a couple of these runs, we finally managed to jump on the gondola to the top station. The winds were blowing hard and the safety officer at the top informed us this would be the last run of the day; so to enjoy ourselves. And that we did. Although the light was as flat as a pancake, it was still easy to find untracked fields of fresh, and hit them at speed too. Before long, we had descended nearly back to mid-station, when I think I broke my personal record for fastest snowboard land speed along a cat-track.

As the snow fell, none of us realized that it would not be until the following Sunday that the top of the mountain would be accessible again.

The hotel continued to host us in charming Kashmiri style, the food was tasty, and dinners became romantic for the fact candles were oft used as the power failed several times per evening.

The storm which had shut down the upper gondola phase, raged on for several more days. I have never seen so much snow fall in such a short space of time, and so it was that every morning for most of the week, there would be plenty of fresh, and a constant snowfall. Since we were forced to stay low, we made the most of our guide Fayez, who showed us some awesome lines through the trees and along some steep challenging terrain that eventually delivered you at Tangmarg; a town based at the foot of the hill up to Gulmarg.

I attended an avalanche safety meeting on Tuesday evening which went some way to educating me of the dangers of back country snowboarding, and also gave a prediction of when the upper mountain would once again open – Friday lunch time at best, and this would be after several controlled detonations of explosives to shift some suspect avalanche hot spots.

The snowfall thinned toward the end of the week, and we lapped up the last of the untracked areas of fresh powder as the weekend landed. But still, by Saturday, we had only made one descent from the top station, way back on day 1… we were getting hungry and restless for all that fresh neige to be made available to us.

The Gift That Keeps Giving

Mount Hotham, Victoria

This year has seen some records broken in Australian weather. The tropical Gold Coast resort of Surfers Paradise recorded its first EVER sub zero temperatures during the crack of dawn. Sydney has also been really cold, rivalling Wintery days of my homeland. However with the last few weeks, the clouds and low temperatures have fallen away. The sun is once again shining and I've been able to lose my jacket whilst wondering the city streets. This week though, I couldn't wait to be cold again. The destination and reason: Mt Hotham, Victoria - snowboard riding.

As I left my final client in Bondi Junction, I got a call from Az asking if I was gonna be late (as per usual), fortune was on my side as I stepped straight on a bus that would drop me at the end of my road. Pretty soon, Todd had joined us and we had his car packed with our boards, clothes and supplies.

We were united with Wedgie, Alison and Rog but just had one Lowen to arrive... Human tetris on YouTube helped pass those final moments of city confinement. Then the fun started... 6 hours driving to Albury, with the most amazing bouts of 20 questions you'd come across, and err Maccas... Luckily, at some point around the time we crossed the state border of New South Wales to Victoria, I fell asleep in the back for around 2hours (a rarity for me) and combined with the other 5hours sleep I got in a bed at Wedgies parents place, I was set for my first days riding.

So after a ridiulously early start, we arrived at Mount Hotham at around 9ish, parted with "I don't want to think about how much" for a 3day lift pass and set about cutting some new lines. Initially, I was pretty disappointed with the snow quality. It's not that there wasn't much of it, more so that it had rained the day before and made it all incredibly wet and slushy - like the stuff you see packed around fresh fish at the local mongers. So after the least enjoyable days riding I can ever remember (all aside from a day of rain in Austria 05), I wasn't hopeful of much for Hotham.

Luckily, we brought a good party to Victoria and the mood wouldn't be dampened by a bit of rain. Myself and Aaron kicked off the long weekends cook fest with some chicken fajitas. Several beers each later, the physicality of the day and the extended travel meant every one was soon crashed out.

A second days riding didn't offer much hope first off. The lower temps had given the pistes a bullet proof sheen which would finally soften up after lunch and allow for some fun, though still not much. The sun was out for a while though, and my riding mood most definitely improved. A late arvo whiteout would provide the best find of the day though. Todd and myself headed where there were no people. Skiers right off the Heavenly Valley lift descended a short way under the cloud line, and a clear lightly covered gulley awaited.

Rog and Todd stepped up to the wheels of fire and prepared one of the most memorable meals of all time... Goulash. Several hours of cooking time ensured everyone was pretty well 'relaxed' by the time the food was served up, it finally arrived and was gobbled up by everyone around the table. It wasn't the last we'd experience of the wonderful delights of goulash though. uh uh.

Day 3 - a dump! a whopping 10mm of snow meant there was at least something to cut out the icy sounds booming up with every turn, and finally, we could start to appreciate the terrain that Hotham had to offer. Snowmaking was now full steam ahead too, and so it was technically snowing all day long.

That wasn't the only dump that started the day off though... on their first visit to the little boys room, certain members of the party were once again re-united with the familiar smell of last nights goulash... and one member in particular would be sniffing that oh so distinctive, pungent smell all day. On just about every lift. And just about everytime his jacket puffed out some air - that smell would be there to haunt he and all around him... for the next 36hours. He wasn't impressed, nor was the poor woman that had to share a room with 3 croaking guys for 4days... ah, heck, why talk in the third person eh!?

So back to day 3's riding... and, well, it made me realise just how great a resort Hotham really is. By far the best of the 3 Australian ones I've been to thus far, the terrain is varied and interesting with something for all snow sports lovers... except maybe air quality (during my stay in the village). By late afternoon, our lift tickets were dwindling to an end, and we just had to make the most of the heavily falling snow as it made the pistes and back country great fun to ride in. That snow continued to fall, on and off most of the night... until the early hours.

Most of the gang headed out to Jack Frosts, though we soon moved on the General Store as we'd heard there was some kinda band playing a gig there. And indeed there was, though what the guy singing was like, I have not much recollection... as the night slipped into morning just as the twanging guitar strums slipped into a bangin' DJ set. I'm thinking it was about 3.30am when Todd and I made it back to our rooms; heck we didn't have to get up for anything the next day!?

7.10am day 4, I start to stir. I'd fallen asleep in the clothes I went out in the night before (always nice). I felt like a small rodent had taken up residence in my head...

7.14am day 4, Lowen, who had been sensible enough to boycott the previous nights musical frivolities looks out the window of our room and notices the 15cm dump of snow. He comes back past my bed and says "I'm off for a ski". I says "really?". "Yup". So within 90 seconds, I'd whipped on my board riding gear and was out that door quicker than a round of jagers being emptied.

With no valid lift passes, we'd have to be careful... and the fact we had to vacate our rooms by 10am. This meant 2 things. We'd have to go hard and fast to make this early morning jaunt worthwhile and I'd just have to deal with the overriding feeling in my head and gut.

Fortune favours the brave they say. I'd say I was pretty brave since I coulda blown chunks at any moment. But instead was blown away by this quality snowfall... this quality snowfall that we would have to rape and pillage, before leaving it to the sleepy heads that still had time left on the mountain.

Myself and Lowen duly left our mark on several runs, and managed to not get challenged by any lifties... our conscience' were clear after the amount we'd paid for lift passes... and it was now time to wrap up our time on the mountain.

9hours back in a car to Sydney, via Wedgies folks place, who put up an awesome mid trip meal... and I was dreaming of snowy times ahead... though this time - 5months ahead. Time to get some gym time in.

Thanks again to everyone involved... see you in the video; coming soon.

Dune Buggy

Dubai, United Arab Emirates

The UAE consists of 7 Emirates (these are pretty much like States) and is just a short flight South of war-torn Iraq… though in saying that – it’s across a Gulf and there is no such trouble here. Dubai is a growing city – and growing fast. The Arabs are very keen not to be outdone by any other city and will basically stop at nothing to get one over on old New York, London, Sydney or Tokyo; the new ‘world’s tallest building’ is on it’s way up right now.

As I rode a cab ride from the airport to my friend Kats parents house, the citys skyline imposes itself on you – twinkling lights shining out from as many ‘in-construction’ skyscrapers as complete ones. Aside from very regular 30+ temps, Dubai’s got a heck of a lot that I'd never realised; Beachs, Advanced Sporting Facilities, Museums, Big Malls, Many tourist attractions, a huge club scene – as well as the stuff I did realise; sand, very plush hotels and one of the worlds most advanced indoor snowdomes.

After an evening settling after the flight with a BBQ and drinks, Monday gave me a jam packed day of fun. First off, I got to dust off ‘The Stud’ at ‘Ski Dubai’s’ 400metres of two slopes (one regular and one expert) with Kat. Perfectly groomed, no ice, a café half way down the slope, a quad seat chair lift as well as the enormous luxury Mall of Emirates underneath and sideways-on to the huge dome complex – so big it has aircraft warning lights fitted to the roof and a multi-story car park - underneath.

I started with a slightly shaky first run, but then started to gain my ‘snowfeet’. Riding my own board and gear for the first time since April 05 felt extremely satisfying! The two slopes off have several natural humps and bumps that you can pop the board off, with long landing zones – surprisingly empty at most times of my session. I think I needn’t say much more about how much I enjoyed this, since it is after all, snowboarding; my favourite past-time.

After this we met with Kats family for some traditional Dubai Kebabs followed by some ice cream, that, once I’d finished made me feel a little sick – though only due to the quantity I ate. However, the feeling of sickness would last well through the afternoon.

Arabian Nights Tours picked us up for the desert safari tour; a Toyota Landcruiser, the vehicle of choice. We arrived at ‘Big Red’, a huge mountainous looking sand-dune where some of the air pressure was let out of the cars tyres. Then, BAM! What I thought would be just another 4x4 sand dune tour; our driver, who never actually introduced himself (I’ll call him Ali for arguments sake) was possessed by Satan himself. The cars front wheels literally leaving the sand on one occasion, sliding sideways with the cars axis well off and near-misses of other tour cars quickly becoming the norm. As fun as it was (I do still have a grin on my face writing this), I was actually more scared at moments of this ride, that at any point of my skydive back in August. As we finished up with the scary stuff, the red Sun set over the dessert… but not completely before we had to pull another tour car out of a tight situation.

A quick visit to a camel farm, and then onto an almost traditional market where we could fulfil all our Arabian dreams… except maybe flying a magic carpet or finding a genie in a lamp. The site offers the guest the chance to drink Arabian coffee, smoke Shiesh (Apple, Pear or Orange flavour tobacco) through a large water bong, get Henna, ride a camel, dress up like an Arabian, eat traditional food, watch and take part in a belly dancing show and of course, buy souvenirs. Aside from the last option, we did the lot – my henna experience was a little disappointing though, I asked for a star – thinking I’d get an emo inspired design. What I got was a quick entrance to the witching club on my left ankle (I’m pretty sure the woman doing it wasn’t the spawn of the devil though). I guess I should’ve just gone for ‘Love’ & ‘Hate’ on my knuckles instead…

After digging the other tour car out delaying us, we got back home pretty late after the tour, and with an early flight for me the next morning, we had to leave the club-night till another day.

I packed up my snowboard, clothes, plus new & old backpack contents and said my thanks & goodbyes. As I got a taxi back to the airport, I got to see much of the city for the first time in daylight, and I have to give the Arabians credit for city beautification. Considering the task, so many streets are lined with grass & flowers, with monstrous skyscrapers standing like giants. One road has nothing but two parallel rows of skyscrapers – which almost look as if a set square was used to get them so straight and orderly. I would really recommend Dubai, I’ll definitely return some day to try out all the other stuff on offer like the 7* Burg hotel at around £1000 per night… well, maybe.

Pretty soon, I was back where I’ve been on average once every 2 weeks for a little over a year – flight no.28 in 54 weeks – and this was the longest one too.
I’m beginning to believe in air-karma. On my flight to Dubai I got the typically worst seat on an airplane – in the middle of 3 people, with the seat in front constantly reclined for my discomfort! This time I got lucky seat 25A – the one at the front of the economy rows with all the leg room and a much better tv screen – as well as the window seat without the inconvenience of having to move the person next to you each time you want to get up. 15 hours later, plus another 6hours ahead in international time zones, I landed back in Sydney at sunrise Wednesday, jumped straight in a cab and headed for my new home. Randwick is the next town inland from the beach town I stayed at last time; Coogee, so it’s an area I’m already more than familiar with.